Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [] link cam broken when fallen on : Edit Log




USnavy


Apr 17, 2012, 3:45 AM

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Registered: Nov 5, 2007
Posts: 2660

Re: [] link cam broken when fallen on
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I have to agree with VertFlirt to some extent. I have also had rather bad luck with the Link Cams. I have never had one break, but I have had them pull a number of times in seemingly solid placements, and I am aware of the risks involved in sideways loading and the like. Two of my partners, who are 5.12 trad climbers, complain about the same issues I complain about regarding them. They just dont feel that bomber. Whenever I place a Link Cam and yank on the stem, they always seem to slip a bit before they grab. I do not have that issue with any other brand of cams. The more experienced of the two climbers I referenced above took a big fall on the Zodiac of El Cap because the .5 Link Cam pulled on body weight in a no-brainier C1 placement. The only time I really use them anymore is on aid when I need to leap frog a cam up a C1 crack or to build an anchor. I dont really use them anymore for lead protection unless I am completely out of other options.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Apr 17, 2012, 3:52 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Apr 17, 2012, 3:46 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Apr 17, 2012, 3:48 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Apr 17, 2012, 3:49 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Apr 17, 2012, 3:51 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Apr 17, 2012, 3:52 AM


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