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Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [squierbypetzl] Correct Anchor?: Edit Log




majid_sabet


Apr 17, 2012, 11:10 PM

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Registered: Dec 12, 2002
Posts: 8186
Re: [squierbypetzl] Correct Anchor?
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squierbypetzl wrote:
Everybody bring it down a notch. Blue forum, remember?

The anchor setup in Jmichaels image is more than enough to keep you safe on most bolted sport climbs. Your own setup was a bit too redundant, unnecessarily so, and could lead to a mistake which would lead to an accident.

[image]http://tawkroc.org/files/2010/06/top-rope-config-draws.jpg[/image]

Most people use 2 opposed non-locking biners for the power point. If you feel better using lockers all around, feel free.

edit: upon further review, it seems I'm taking some things for granted. What knots are you using on the cordelettes?

if you are going to use draws, both master biner and top biners must be the exact same kind otherwise, forces on one side is greater due to mismatch biner length. not a biggy in TR but, it can be a problem on lead anchor.


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Apr 17, 2012, 11:11 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by majid_sabet () on Apr 17, 2012, 11:10 PM
Post edited by majid_sabet () on Apr 17, 2012, 11:11 PM


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