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Re: [jt512] link cam broken when fallen on :
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healyje
Apr 18, 2012, 5:34 PM
Views: 10487
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
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jt512 wrote: healyje wrote: bearbreeder wrote: i read all the current documentation and saw nothing to indicate that they were aid only ... nor is it listed as such in metollius page as far as i can see Don't know about what any of the current documentation says, but they used always have a notation to that effect and at 5kn you shouldn't need the documentation to spell it out for you. I don't recall the 0 and 00 TCUs' documentation ever stating that they were aid-only pieces, although many climbers certainly treated them as such. In fact, Metolius used to give them the same strength rating as their larger cams, 2000 lbf, IIRC. I remember when they downgraded them to 1000 lbf (now 5 kN) and why. Metolius stated that in an optimal placement the 0 and 00 TCUs would meet the old 2000 lbf rating; however, the rating was reduced to reflect the fact that the placement tolerances are small for small cams, and that therefore many placements in actual use are suboptimal. I carried 0 and 00 TCUs when I trad climbed, but I was aware of their limitations. I never fell on one that I recall, but I did take a small fall on a comparably sized Alien, which held (and wasn't even damaged). The small Aliens had much higher strength ratings than the comparably sized TCUs, but I assumed that that was because the Alien ratings did not take into account the difficulty of getting an optimal placement. Jay They definitely did make the distinction at one time with an annotation even if they don't now. But again, the 5kn rating should speak for itself (along with one look at them), though that is probably a bad assumption in today's climbing world.
(This post was edited by healyje on Apr 18, 2012, 5:40 PM)
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Post edited by healyje
() on Apr 18, 2012, 5:35 PM
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Post edited by healyje
() on Apr 18, 2012, 5:40 PM
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