Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [USnavy] link cam broken when fallen on : Edit Log




healyje


Apr 18, 2012, 11:26 AM

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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
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Re: [USnavy] link cam broken when fallen on
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USnavy wrote:
It's kind of an unofficial official statement. Metolius has openly said in e-mails that the pieces are designed for aid only, however they do not state that on their website. I remember reading a thread awhile back where someone complained that they decked when a 0 or 00 ripped. He contacted Metolius and they told him that the 0 and 00 cams were for aid only.

I just checked with their catalog crew and they did at one time annotate those pieces as aid-only. It was probably not the wisest decision to stop pointing out the obvious in their documentation from my perspective.

USnavy wrote:
My partner fell on a 0 Master Cam last season and umbrellaed the cam in its placement, shearing off the cam stops.

As I said, it's physically impossible for a cam - anyone's cam; of any size - to invert and sheer the stops in a good placement - physically impossible.

The only way it can happen is to fall on a piece that isn't placed securely, or is placed securely in less than idea rock, and said cam drags to a wider section of the crack where the cam then inverts. That's why you need to pay exceptional attention to detail when placing all forms of small pro.


(This post was edited by healyje on Apr 18, 2012, 11:31 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by healyje () on Apr 18, 2012, 11:30 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Apr 18, 2012, 11:30 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Apr 18, 2012, 11:30 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Apr 18, 2012, 11:31 AM


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