Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [Rob.hack] Drop test fuse breaking strengths.: Edit Log


May 2, 2012, 7:21 PM

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Re: [Rob.hack] Drop test fuse breaking strengths.
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Rob.hack wrote:
From reading other threads on this forum I believe that the 'fuse' method would be the most suitable.

In my experience, the fuse method is not as accurate some people think. I did some drop testing on a few pieces of cordlette awhile back and my load cell registered a different breaking strength every time. The standard deviation was through the roof if I remember right. Furthermore, the actual breaking strength of the fuse and the expected strength were quite a bit different. However, I did not conduct some wide-scale testing of a hundred samples. I only tested a handful of samples. But the seemingly random and somewhat unpredictable breaking strain of the samples I did test leads me to believe that using a load cell or similar device is the only appropriate option if you want any reasonable level of accuracy.

The other issue is that a fuse works to a very limited degree to tell you if a fall exceeded a roundabout value, but it does not really tell you how much force the top piece would have actually experienced in a fall. If you want, I can tell you where you can get a portable load cell analyzer that can be powered off of a laptop and a 5,000 lbs load cell for under $600.

If you look at my thread here:;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;page=unread#unread

I used the load cell analyzer I am referencing to generate the data in that post.

(This post was edited by USnavy on May 2, 2012, 7:36 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on May 2, 2012, 7:23 PM
Post edited by USnavy () on May 2, 2012, 7:24 PM
Post edited by USnavy () on May 2, 2012, 7:24 PM
Post edited by USnavy () on May 2, 2012, 7:35 PM
Post edited by USnavy () on May 2, 2012, 7:36 PM

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