Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [shockabuku] A few strength Questions?: Edit Log




bsyed


May 10, 2012, 4:29 PM

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Registered: Mar 2, 2009
Posts: 119

Re: [shockabuku] A few strength Questions?
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http://books.google.co.uk/...ychology&f=false
See page 22.

climbers are naturally directed towards climbing rather than mainstream sports for a variety of reasons and as such many of the great climbing legends had only to things that made them great: Passion and talent. That kept them going and developed the pretty complex skills involved in climbing and rarely did any conditioning for "events" but for the love of the climb.

Strength and conditioning work is a pretty recent field and although i agree that skill learning is the best thing to reach 5.13+, having that extra strength gives you a 2% advantage on other climbers on the same skill level.
Starting out i would rather be weak and skinny so i learn decent technique and then and the strength later to help me perform better.

Furthermore if the OP is having issues with his forearm strength and tendons then why not deadlift. it has a pretty good record of improving grips and could certainly help if he's having issues, better than a "Climb more till you get a serious injury cos you didnt try any prehab work or made progress slower cos you didnt sort out the loose link in your chain" response.


(This post was edited by bsyed on May 10, 2012, 4:41 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by bsyed () on May 10, 2012, 4:30 PM
Post edited by bsyed () on May 10, 2012, 4:41 PM


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