Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [surfstar] Do you consider yourself elite?: Edit Log




tradmanclimbs


May 11, 2012, 5:50 PM

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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
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Re: [surfstar] Do you consider yourself elite?
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John, I chatted with those guys @ devils tower. they had W. Virginia plates, said they were from the New and climbed 12's The durrance is so different from the kind of climbing that you would experience @ the new if you primarly sport climbed that It would not supprise me @ all if you got spanked on a moderate off width gear climb . I bet they would also get spanked on New Yosemite @ the garbage can walls.. I It was my rest day so I watched them for awhile but it was slow and painfull. I went for a bike ride and talked to them at dusk. They were wearing shorts and tank tops, Rasberried from head to toe, mumbled something about not getting to the top and some troubble with the ropes. next day the rangers informed us that there were 2 ropes stuck on Durrance qnd asked us to get them. We actually did a different climb and friends of ours got the stuck ropes. I have climbed in WV enough (9 trips to seneca, etc) to know the grades are stiff. I just do not see how climbing a bunch of bolted steep climpy reachy face hardstuff is going to give you good crack technique and gear skills without at least a week or so of practice @ that kind of climbing. I do agree with you that if only sport climbing you need to be 5.14 to be elite and there is still a ton of stuff you will not be able to climb if you do not practice other diciplins.. dave Graham ain't no Uli Steck if you know what I mean;)

My friend has put up 180m WI6X M7 routs has many unrepeted FA'a, Solos WI5+ IV routs he is without a doubt an elite ice climber but not an elite rock climber. Uli Steck on the otherhand cranks 5.14, boulders V whatever and ice & alpine @ an elite level.... HFS!!!! so this brings us back to square one. 5.12 V7 sport boulder specific climbers are not elite. they are damn strong in one area but not elite.....


(This post was edited by tradmanclimbs on May 11, 2012, 6:20 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by tradmanclimbs () on May 11, 2012, 6:20 PM


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