Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [Joho] La Sportiva - Futura: Edit Log


May 13, 2012, 7:19 AM

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Registered: May 13, 2012
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Re: [Joho] La Sportiva - Futura
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I disagree with some of the comments here: they seem to be purely subjective, and it's actually very complex.

Many years ago I climbed in Asolo Runouts which I loved. Previous to that we wore boots! The Runouts had softer rounded soles and just seemed to grip. Then came 'stealth' rubber, amazing - very soft, molds to the rock surface, and reforms once the pressure is off - 'sticks like glue'. The trade-off is faster wear and cost. In those days we only used to talk about 'edging shoes' or 'smearing shoes'.

It seems there has been a move away from smearing shoes, and being cynical one wonders if it's simply cheaper to manufacture a shoe with an edge, i.e. a 'stuck on' sole rather than a molded sole. Fashion is another consideration, not least for the manufacturer. Personally I have always felt more secure in a tight soft shoe which grips, rather than a rigid sole which needs to find an edge. However, both features are important.

The frictional properties of rubber are quite complicated. The rigidity, structure and volume of your foot, not to mention the surface/angle of the rock face and your height/weight ratio will all have a bearing on the experience. I suspect the Futura would suit me very well. There's only one way to tell for sure, but then it's too late to take them back if they're wrong! :)

(This post was edited by mike-f on May 13, 2012, 7:34 AM)

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Post edited by mike-f () on May 13, 2012, 7:34 AM

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