Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [majid_sabet] Equalette variation knots: Edit Log

Partner rgold

May 14, 2012, 5:59 PM

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Registered: Dec 3, 2002
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Re: [majid_sabet] Equalette variation knots
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majid_sabet wrote:
so you are saying CH is a good choice for anchor knots when many researches recommends that CH do slip when higher forces are applied ?

There is little credible evidence that cloves hitches slip under climbing loads. Some of it seems to be rumors about tests that no one can produce.

Jim Ewing did produce slippage in a UIAA drop test when the clove hitch was on the faliing weight, i.e. in the equivalent of tying in with a clove hitch. He didn't get significant slippage when the clove hitch was tied to the anchor Other than that, every other test I know of found that clove hitches do not slip significantly, and this agrees with a vast body of experience, especially in Europe, where the knot is absolutely standard.

Mal Daly did some drop tests on clove hitches in webbing and found they were fine as well.

In any case, all you have to do is clip the loops of that Equalette thingy in and you are backed up against slippage, and if it turns out that there is some slip, you get the benefit of energy absorbtion from it.

Look, I don't like the thing for reasons I already stated, but the clove hitches and that third strand are not the problem.

Edit I do recall some tests that suggested that clove hitches are more prone to slip in static climbing ropes, so the Equalette modification under discussion here should probably only be tied with 7mm nylon.

(This post was edited by rgold on May 14, 2012, 6:04 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by rgold () on May 14, 2012, 6:04 PM

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