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Re: [majid_sabet] Equalette variation knots:
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rgold
May 15, 2012, 11:12 AM
Views: 13127
Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1804
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Majid, in those tests, under maximal loading, improperly oriented clove hitches slipped at a bit less than the 400 lbf increment needed to break a rope tied with a figure-8 knot, and the slipping consumed less than two feet of rope. Properly oriented clove hitches didn't slip. The orientation issue suggests that the shape of the biner probably plays an role in the results. In any case, there is nothing there that suggests clove hitches aren't fine for climbing applications, and there is even a hint that they might be safer, if they are capable of absorbing energy through a small amount of slippage and thereby avoid breaking. The slight strength advantage of the figure-8 is deemed "inconsequential," and of course additional loads in an anchor system that might be the byproduct of the figure-8's lack of fine adjustability are not even on the horizon in this study. Of course, the tests do not address what happens with a double strand of 7mm nylon.
(This post was edited by rgold on May 15, 2012, 11:22 AM)
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Post edited by rgold
() on May 15, 2012, 11:22 AM
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