Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [jt512] Advice to the beginning trad leader around falling - don't: Edit Log




Partner rgold


May 19, 2012, 11:59 AM

Views: 12355

Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1801

Re: [jt512] Advice to the beginning trad leader around falling - don't
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

Unfortunately, no. I'm reporting the results of a private communication from a third party. The chance that the study met any standard conditions for statistical validity are, I suspect, small. For all I know, he made twenty placements and one pulled, although the impression I got from the letter is that far more placements than that were involved.

I wouldn't ascribe much significance to the 1 in 20 number, although it is nice to have something to wave around when people speak about bombproof cam placements. I wouldn't be even a little surprised if 1 in 20 was right for small cams.

What is significant is that someone with enormous expertise finds, on experimenting, that he cannot always predict that a cam placement is good. That is all any beginner (or any expert, for that matter) needs to know in terms of calibrating their own approach to safety questions.


(This post was edited by rgold on May 19, 2012, 12:03 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by rgold () on May 19, 2012, 12:03 PM


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$62.06 (10% off)
$7.65 (10% off)
$53.96 (10% off)
$8.55 (10% off)