Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [rgold] Advice to the beginning trad leader around falling - don't: Edit Log




patto


May 19, 2012, 3:01 PM

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Registered: Nov 14, 2005
Posts: 1451

Re: [rgold] Advice to the beginning trad leader around falling - don't
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rgold wrote:
What is significant is that someone with enormous expertise finds, on experimenting, that he cannot always predict that a cam placement is good.

Then the most relevant conclusions to draw here aren't about cam failure, it is about ONE individual's ability to assess gear.

I believe I could place and test 100 pieces and all 100 pieces would hold. A bomber piece WILL hold. It is all about your ability to asses pieces. At least 50% of my gear I place on lead would ft into this category. But it really is climb and rock dependent.

That is not to say every piece I place on a climb will hold. I lead an 'X' rated route a couple months ago which I felt was safer than indicated. Even still my first 3 pieces over 10m off the belay were small, I would give them 80% chance of holding. It wasn't until I placed a "big" 0.3 C4 that I felt I could breath easy.


I've fallen on and weighted gear many dozens of times. I've NEVER had gear pull. Also I pretty much don't climb sport, only trad.


(This post was edited by patto on May 19, 2012, 3:36 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by patto () on May 19, 2012, 3:03 PM
Post edited by patto () on May 19, 2012, 3:03 PM
Post edited by patto () on May 19, 2012, 3:36 PM


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