Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: My advice on finger injury prevention:: Edit Log


May 22, 2012, 9:17 PM

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Registered: May 22, 2012
Posts: 3

My advice on finger injury prevention:
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Start playing piano.

I started playing piano not too long after I started climbing. I progressed very quickly to the 5.10 and 5.11 level and didn't really seriously start playing piano everyday until I was well into the 5.11s.
Sometimes there'd be some fingernail crimps put in with some of the routes I'd be training on and I noticed that two of the fingers in my left hand were getting sore while all the others felt great. I didn't realize this at first, but before I started playing piano alot all my fingers would be sore after some routes focusing on hard crimps. After I really started playing there was only the two that were still getting sore and this was when I realized the piano was helping my fingers out alot. Those two fingers were still getting sore because for all the songs I was playing I almost never used those two fingers. After this I learned some songs & scales to involve every finger and since then ALL my fingers have always felt good.

This really isn't soo helpful though. If it's not a passion for you then you probably won't stick with it. But if you're sitting at home for three months because of a finger injury, maybe it could help you recover faster +

(This post was edited by metalmonkei on May 22, 2012, 9:27 PM)

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Post edited by metalmonkei () on May 22, 2012, 9:27 PM

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