Last weekend was the May long weekend for us people up here in Canada, and I had planned to spend it with my girlfriend, hopefully climbing. She's not as good as I am (and I'm not all that strong), but is very enthusiastic about climbing. The previous weekend we did a local 3-pitch trad climb as warm-up, and make sure she was ok with the general procedures.
Saturday we climbed the Standard Route (II, 5.5, 5.2R) up White Horse Ledge, Direct Finish (5.7) variation. That's about 1100' (335m) of almost completely friction slab climbing. I lead everything, but wasn't particularly bothered by the run-out bits, and the Standard Route is such because it has some of the better protection options for routes up the ledge. (And, I've been up a few similar style climbs in the Adirondacks, too.) It is a lovely cliff, and a lovely route. Also, the approach is simple and the down-hike is on well marked comfortable trail. Still, it was a long day for us, and my calves were feeling a bit worn by the end of it.
Sunday we drove over the Kancamangus highway (which is a nice drive) to Rumney and spent a shortish day (due to the heat and tiredness) climbing there. Where the granite slabs of White Horse Ledge felt familiar to me, the schist of Rumney was completely new. I spent far too much time (and energy) trying to figure out how this rock worked, but still enjoyed it. We climbed a few climbs at the Parking Lot wall.
Monday we packed up and drove back over to Rumney, climbed a few more routes, this time on the Meadows wall, then headed home. We hit an unfortunate 2 hour wait at the border, but otherwise the drive went fine.
And, though warm, the weather was clear and dry the whole weekend, which was nice. I was, also, surprised that there were no bugs around the whole weekend. I'd have expected both mosquitos and black flies by this time in May.