Forums: Climbing Information: Trip Reports: Re: [dagibbs] Long weekend in New Hampshire: Edit Log


May 28, 2012, 6:04 AM

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Re: [dagibbs] Long weekend in New Hampshire
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dagibbs wrote:
Last weekend was the May long weekend for us people up here in Canada, and I had planned to spend it with my girlfriend, hopefully climbing. She's not as good as I am (and I'm not all that strong), but is very enthusiastic about climbing. The previous weekend we did a local 3-pitch trad climb as warm-up, and make sure she was ok with the general procedures.

Saturday we climbed the Standard Route (II, 5.5, 5.2R) up White Horse Ledge, Direct Finish (5.7) variation. That's about 1100' (335m) of almost completely friction slab climbing. I lead everything, but wasn't particularly bothered by the run-out bits, and the Standard Route is such because it has some of the better protection options for routes up the ledge. (And, I've been up a few similar style climbs in the Adirondacks, too.) It is a lovely cliff, and a lovely route. Also, the approach is simple and the down-hike is on well marked comfortable trail. Still, it was a long day for us, and my calves were feeling a bit worn by the end of it.

Sunday we drove over the Kancamangus highway (which is a nice drive) to Rumney and spent a shortish day (due to the heat and tiredness) climbing there. Where the granite slabs of White Horse Ledge felt familiar to me, the schist of Rumney was completely new. I spent far too much time (and energy) trying to figure out how this rock worked, but still enjoyed it. We climbed a few climbs at the Parking Lot wall.

Monday we packed up and drove back over to Rumney, climbed a few more routes, this time on the Meadows wall, then headed home. We hit an unfortunate 2 hour wait at the border, but otherwise the drive went fine.

And, though warm, the weather was clear and dry the whole weekend, which was nice. I was, also, surprised that there were no bugs around the whole weekend. I'd have expected both mosquitos and black flies by this time in May.

Was that you i talked to at Parking lot wall sunday night? you did Egg Mcmeadows the .9/10a then went to do the 10b down the hill? if so.. Cool!

Rumney does take a bit of getting used to. you do develop a sense of it and things seem right though.

the breeze at Rumney tends to help with the bugs. i made out without many bites this weekend but the girls in my group got a lot so it depends.

oh ya my weekend.
went up thursday night late. met up with friends friday morning in the rain. we hung out at the Common Cafe for a while watching the rain come down. when it eased up we hiked Welch-Dickey (4.5mi loop with 2 2600/2700' peaks) What is usually a casual 3rd class slab walk for much of the first peak had a bit more spice due to the wetness. got back.. did Armed and dangerous .10b and Metamorphosis .8+ then went to dinner.

Had much better days saturday and sunday once it dried up. I must have over gripped on the wet stuff saturday morning cuz i was not feeling super strong to get on my project so i just had fun putting ropes up on challenging things for the group.

i wonder how many people got tickets or towed this weekend for parking on the road.. what about a no parking sign they don't understand but it is apparently a pretty expensive ticket and a really inconvenient towing company.

(This post was edited by jakedatc on May 28, 2012, 6:14 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by jakedatc () on May 28, 2012, 6:14 AM

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