Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [hafilax] Thoughts on cams over passive pro?: Edit Log




healyje


Jun 4, 2012, 1:03 PM

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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
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Re: [hafilax] Thoughts on cams over passive pro?
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hafilax wrote:
If you don't need to extend the placement, cams can be quite a bit faster. With nuts you have to select the right nut and then extend it. Otherwise, they are probably pretty equal to me for placement time.

It should be noted that probably the most common mistake I see when out climbing is the failure to sling and extend cams when necessary. And make no mistake, being in the habit of not slinging cams appropriately is huge mistake, not a 'no big deal' one. By and large, the type of pro and the characteristics of an individual placement don't dictate the need for appropriate slinging, but rather the rope path over the course of a pitch.

Also, the lack of slinging on cams results in your cams below the top piece rotating to the horizontal when tensioned in a fall. If the top piece then fails your cams are put into motion pivoting back to the loading angle and then stop in that position. I don't know about you, but once cams are in motion I don't have all the confidence in the world around them stopping where you want them to stop - they do most of the time, but you're still gambling in that regard.


(This post was edited by healyje on Jun 4, 2012, 1:04 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by healyje () on Jun 4, 2012, 1:04 PM


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