Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [jt512] Will an overhand knot in a Dynex runner cut itself under load?: Edit Log




shockabuku


Jun 14, 2012, 7:48 AM

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Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4850

Re: [jt512] Will an overhand knot in a Dynex runner cut itself under load?
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jt512 wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
its quite simple ... you dont take a static fall ... period ...

if you think yr going to take a static fall ... retie in with the rope and clove in ... static falls are BAD regardless of what you use ... this isnt via ferrata ... if you think youll be taking a static fall on a good portion of the climb, use a via ferrata type lanyard

train yourself to not have slack in the system when clipped in no matter what gear you use

i personally use a PAS, and as we all know they wont take a factor 2 fall ... do i care? ... nope im not taking a factor 2 fall on it ... i find it utterly hilarious when some guy at the crag started rambling on about how "unsafe" my PAS is because it wont a factor 2 fall when they use a nylon sling or a beal dyna connection and have enough slack in the system for a factor 1 fall

the "flaw" you pointed out on the petzl diagram is a non issue if you simply keep slack out of the system ...

the most important thing is to use yr head ... plenty of guides or other experienced individuals i know use slings for personal rap anchors simply because they dont believe in carrying up extra gear ... and often those are dyneema slings ... hell many sport climbers will do the same with linked draws, sometimes dyneema ones, are they doing to die too? ... they know better than to take a static fall on em

weight that tether and keep the slack out of the system ... thats the logic ... and if its ever an issue, tie in with the rope

dont take a static fall regardless of what material you use

and dont be one of those RCers who shout out that PASes, daisies, dyneema, etc ... are unsafe ... everything is unsafe if used a certain way

WTF is a "static fall"?

A downward "static move"?

Jay

Then I have to assume that, for the most part, it is only influenced by "static gravity".

Actually, that almost makes some sense.


(This post was edited by shockabuku on Jun 14, 2012, 8:02 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by shockabuku () on Jun 14, 2012, 8:02 AM


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