Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [CurlyFries] New Belayer: Edit Log




USnavy


Jun 24, 2012, 4:17 AM

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Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667

Re: [CurlyFries] New Belayer
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CurlyFries wrote:
My usual climbing partner and myself took a lead course a couple months back. Since then we sport climb indoors every other week and sport climb outside once a week.

I am not comforatable climbing anything pushing my climbing abilities because her belaying straight up scares the shit out of me.

I get short roped pretty much every bolt. I will look down when I finish a route and ask her if she is good to lower. Almost every time she already has the cam fully open (lever out and all) when I havent even weighed the rope. She also back clips half the time.

Should I be patient climbing routes below my abilities and wait for her to improve? Is it normal for someone to take a couple months to get good at belaying? Or should I ditch her and start climbing with my other buddies more often (all of which I have confidence in)?
Sounds like a standard gym climber to me. I have climbed with gym staff members at a few top gyms and they were not that much better. Anyway, show her to belay properly. If she doesent get it, move on, climb with someone else. It's not worth the risk. Belaying with someone that has no idea what they are doing may very well put you in the hospital. Dont get confused. Just because someone has a gym tag hanging from their harness saying they are certified doesent actually mean they know shit about belaying. That just means they were able to catch a single lead fall and tell the instructor that they need to verify their biner is locked and their harness is double backed. Real belaying requires a much larger knowledge base than that.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Jun 24, 2012, 4:21 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Jun 24, 2012, 4:21 AM


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