Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [guangzhou] Remove A6 - It's not eveam in a real grade: Edit Log




USnavy


Jun 27, 2012, 11:37 AM

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Registered: Nov 5, 2007
Posts: 2661

Re: [guangzhou] Remove A6 - It's not eveam in a real grade
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There are A3 and A4 routes on El Cap with crap belays that probably wouldn't hold a FF2, but they dont get slapped with an A6 rating. Furthermore, some of the A5s on El Cap have crappy 1/4" rivet and stud bolts for belays. Well if the leader falls at the end of the pitch and zippers down 200 feet onto a quarter-incher, do you really think it is going to hold? Probably not. As far as the Fish Towers A6+ stuff goes, my impression is that no one believes them. I only asked a few people about this subject, but those who I asked were A4 and A5 wall climbers and they said that they do not recognize the A6+ rating they gave that route. I am inclined to side with them, I mean how can you go from A5 to A6+ without even have ever climbed or rated an A5+ or A6? That's ludicrous, that's like going from 5.14 to 5.16 with no experience climbing 5.15, you cant grade something that is so far above the already highest standard - no one will believe you. Even yet, if A6 existed, it would mean that everything is bodyweight and shit. So how could you possibly have A6+? Its not physically possible to make something more severe than all bodyweight. Thats like rating a climb XXX instead of just X. You cant have anything more serious than X because a fall on an X rated route means you will likely die.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Jun 27, 2012, 11:45 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Jun 27, 2012, 11:41 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Jun 27, 2012, 11:43 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Jun 27, 2012, 11:45 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Jun 27, 2012, 11:45 AM


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