Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [USnavy] Remove A6 - It's not eveam in a real grade: Edit Log




guangzhou


Jun 28, 2012, 9:01 PM

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Registered: Sep 26, 2004
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Re: [USnavy] Remove A6 - It's not eveam in a real grade
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USnavy wrote:
There are A3 and A4 routes on El Cap with crap belays that probably wouldn't hold a FF2, but they dont get slapped with an A6 rating.

Name 3. I've only climbed half a dozen El-Cap routes. I can think of No A3 route that has bad belay stations. Unless you're not good at placing gear or have an inadequate rack.

In reply to:
Furthermore, some of the A5s on El Cap have crappy 1/4" rivet and stud bolts for belays. Well if the leader falls at the end of the pitch and zippers down 200 feet onto a quarter-incher, do you really think it is going to hold?

On those A5, if a climber were to fall, zipper the pitch and yank the partner off the wall and they both die, it would most likely confirm the grade isn't A5 but A6.

I also think you should look up what a factor 2 fall is.

In reply to:
Probably not. As far as the Fish Towers A6+ stuff goes, my impression is that no one believes them. I only asked a few people about this subject, but those who I asked were A4 and A5 wall climbers and they said that they do not recognize the A6+ rating they gave that route.

Good for them, a few climbers do indeed recognize the theoretical grade.

There you go speaking expert and experienced climbers who have no names again. If you spoke with someone, tell us who instead of beating around the bush.

The first route in the Fisher tower given the grade was questioned, not sure the second one has been yet.

Aid is definitely about controlling you fear and perception of fear. Hooking for 30 feet above a solid bolts feel very different from hooking 100 feet above the same bolt.

Each hook move getting you higher and further from the bolt will feel harder even if it's not. (I know this for sure)

In reply to:
I am inclined to side with them, I mean how can you go from A5 to A6+ without even have ever climbed or rated an A5+ or A6?

That's what people said when Wolfgang Gulich rated Action Direct. Turns out that rating has not only stood the test of time, but the route has been up grade since.

In reply to:
That's ludicrous, that's like going from 5.14 to 5.16 with no experience climbing 5.15, you cant grade something that is so far above the already highest standard - no one will believe you.

See my statement above. Gullich proposed XI-/XI, which IS 8c+/9a, and that before confirmed 8a existed.

In reply to:
Even yet, if A6 existed, it would mean that everything is bodyweight and shit. So how could you possibly have A6+?
Technical versus straight forward body weight only and shitty.

In reply to:
Its not physically possible to make something more severe than all bodyweight. Thats like rating a climb XXX instead of just X. You cant have anything more serious than X because a fall on an X rated route means you will likely die.

Actually, an X routes mean you're risky injury or life. Not just likely to die.

The only way to know for sure if a route is A5 or A6 is to test the Theoretical grade. So, have an Aid Climber lead the entire A5 or A6 pitch. When reaching the next belay fall on purpose. If anything holds, we can downgrade the route to A4. If the climbers fall the entire pitch and takes his belayer with him from the pitch below, the route is definitely A6. Not just the climber dies, but so does the belayer.

If only the climber dies, the belayer survives, he can confirm the pitch as A5 and lead it himself.

Not sure if you heard of John Middendorf , he has a good description of aid grades.

If you don't believe A6 is possible, grab a partner and go challenge the grade.

Personally, I never plan on establishing an A5 or A6 route so no worried about the theoretical grade.

I will most likely avoid putting up an A4 on purpose but can see how that would happen. I've done one A3+ might as well have been A$ I was so scared. A4 route hope to avoid, just not worth the risk for me. Didn't find much pleasure in it.


(This post was edited by guangzhou on Jun 28, 2012, 9:26 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by guangzhou () on Jun 28, 2012, 9:06 PM
Post edited by guangzhou () on Jun 28, 2012, 9:20 PM
Post edited by guangzhou () on Jun 28, 2012, 9:26 PM


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