Forums: Climbing Information: Trip Reports: Re: [sonso45] Mini slab epics: Edit Log


Jul 8, 2012, 5:22 AM

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Re: [sonso45] Mini slab epics
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Great photos Manny. Looks like a beautiful area.'s always a pleasure to climb with you, even if it is at 6AM and raining.

Dip...Ask Seth about his broken ankle...not sure if he has re-lead the climb where he slipped off and busted his ankle.

I spent Thursday, Friday and part of Saturday climbing. I worked Thursday, climbed late in the afternoon at Peterskill. It was SO hot that we needed to stick to single pitch climbs in the shade. Peterskill has a lot of climbs in the shade. I had only been to Peterskill one other time, fortunately, I was with someone who knew the crag (but none of the names or grades of the climbs). The climbs were fun (we have no idea what we climbed, I think we started on an 8, moved over to a hard 10, then back to an 8). My partner's rack was less than inspiring (all 80's gear and not a lot of it). As such, I TR'd since I did not have my rack. Note to self: If I go back to Peterskill, bring bug spray. The mosquitoes were relentless. It might be worth a trip back, it would be fun to lead the climbs that we did (not the 10, it was awkward and hard).

Friday was also very hot and humid. We stayed on single pitch climbs until the end of the day when the sun moved around the cliff. I had fun, but, everything felt a bit greasy due to the humidity. My partner Jen, lead the third pitch of RMC. She is a very new leader and I was impressed that she was willing to use my rack and lead something that she wasn't quite sure about. She did a great job and felt very proud of her effort.We managed to knock out 12 pitches, on easy terrain.

Saturday was cloudy and it looked like it might actually rain. It was 74 degrees at 8AM, with no sun it felt pretty good. We started on Bunny because we waited all day on Friday for it, but, it was constantly occupied (Jen wanted to mock lead it). I put it up (I can remember when pulling the bunny roof sucked so much energy out of me, a small sign of progress) and Jen ran up it as a warm up. Our plan was to run it again so that Jen could look at the gear placements. She lead it once before but was so sketched that she couldn't find gear. Meanwhile, a guide showed up with two clients and she saw that Jen was at the top of the climb. She asked if she could jump on when we were done, I said "sure, but, Jen is going to mock lead it and then we will be done". The guide wanted to know how long this would take...I replied that I had no idea, but, they could have the climb when we were done or she could go elsewhere (it was 830AM and the cliff was empty. She had lots of choices). The guide replied that she wanted her clients to start on Bunny. I acknowledged her interest in the climb and then lowered Jen. We transferred some gear and Jen went right back up to do her gear placements. I cleaned the climb and we pulled our rope. Actually, my next plan was to lead Bunny to Retribution, but, I figured I would let the guide have the climb. Fortuantely, the guide took her clients to do some ground school while waiting for us to finish. I like this particular guide, I am giving her the benefit of the doubt, but, I don't think it's right to be pressuring climbers off a climb. As I stated earlier, we tried all day on Friday to get on it and there were two parties of 3 who had it tied up. We never approached them to pressure them off the climb.

We then headed to Son of Easy O. Amazingly the entire wall was empty. I think the 96 degree weather forecast scared people away. I started up and felt good as I made my way to the pin. I worked my way into the corner, got myself woefully out of sequence, didn't down climb and took a 10 footer on the pin. Very glad that pin held, because I didn't place gear in the pod above the pin. (note to self: always back up the pin) I do this climb in my sleep, I never thought I would fall moving into that awkward little corner. I was so embarrassed that I fell. I was looking at sky as I was falling, but, got righted quickly when Jen caught me. Thank you Jen for your attentive belay. I smashed my back into the wall and my left arm has an 8 inch rope burn. Actually, it sounds a lot worse than it was. My back was fine and I didn't notice the rope burn until I was on the GT ledge. Yes, I re-grouped and got my act together, repeated the moves, this time in the correct sequence. I was a bit shakier than I expected on the rest of the climb, but, I pushed through. I plugged lots and lots of gear so that if I took another unexpected header I would be fine.

We rapped off and I ran it again on TR (burning off nervous energy). As we were eating our lunch it started to rain. So, we packed up and decided to run the stair master. I am not sure that Jen actually wanted to do it, but, she was willing to keep me company for part of my self punishment. I did 8 laps in the light rain and called it a day.

I headed back to Philadelphia to see Mitch. He is working 18 hour days to finish our new house. His broken wrist is also keeping him off the cliff. Mitch is pounding out the hours; we are supposed to move into our new place on July 31.

I am missing my husband on the crag, but, I am grateful to all of you who have been willing to partner up with me.

It's been a great season thus far, marred only by the sadness of losing Chris a few weeks ago.

(This post was edited by gblauer on Jul 8, 2012, 5:59 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Jul 8, 2012, 5:49 AM
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Jul 8, 2012, 5:53 AM
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Jul 8, 2012, 5:53 AM
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Jul 8, 2012, 5:59 AM

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