Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [JimTitt] Building anchors with the rope: Edit Log




notapplicable


Jul 10, 2012, 9:58 AM

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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17768

Re: [JimTitt] Building anchors with the rope
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JimTitt wrote:
cracklover wrote:
If the piece feeling half the load on any of the three anchor methods were to fail, the method incorporating the sliding x would most likely do the best in distributing the load equally between the two remaining pieces, making further cascade failure less likely

However this is a selective case since you decided which piece would fail, if you randomly select a piece to fail you have a 2 in 3 chance the failed sliding X makes the situation worse. Since the objective in building belays is generally not to achieve the optimum solution for one case but to get the best solution for most or all cases then the X is clearly not desirable.

Nothing to add here, just wanted to quote for emphasis. I have personally always felt that using a sliding-X (especially without limiter knots) in the construction of an anchor is more than just undesirable, it's sketchy. Mostly because I think lack of extension in the event of a placement failing is more important than maximizing equalization in an attempt to prevent placement failure.


JimTitt wrote:
I donīt understand the reason for building a power-point into the belay, the belayers tie-in/belay loop is the focal point for the loads in multi-pitch trad climbing unless the belay points are of unquestionable strength in which case any methor of tying to them is acceptable. If escapingthe system is nescessary there are other ways of doing this.

I incorporate a masterpoint in my anchor most of the time so that my attachment to the anchor is easily adjustable without altering the anchors construction. I may, for example, want to be seated while belaying my second and then stand while belaying their lead on the next pitch. All I have to do is adjust a single clove hitch to achieve this.

I'm not working today, so I will go take some pictures of what I use most frequently as a 3 point gear anchor.

edited for grammar


(This post was edited by notapplicable on Jul 10, 2012, 9:59 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by notapplicable () on Jul 10, 2012, 9:59 AM


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