Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [notapplicable] Building anchors with the rope: Edit Log


Jul 10, 2012, 11:25 AM

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Re: [notapplicable] Building anchors with the rope
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Sorry the pictures are so small. The hammer is the belayer in all pictures and only clove hitches are used to construct the anchors.

I never liked the bulk and lack of versatility of a cordelett and abandoned it after a few months of use. I mostly used the anchor below during my first 3+ years of climbing. I have no idea if other people use it but I just made it up in the field so I could build with the rope. Major disadvantages are that the middle strands are cumbersome to adjust (it may be hard to see but there is not clove hitch at the middle "gear placement" biner) and it uses more rope

I think it was about 4 years ago that I saw rgolds rope anchor and made some modifications to my own based on his design. It solves the middle strand adjustability problem and uses less rope but retains the 3 piece masterpoint (advantage over the Bowline plus clove) and still allows the belayer to easily adjust how far from the masterpoint they are anchored (advantage over all three anchors posted so far). It also only uses clove hitches which are very easy to untie after being weighted (advantage over any system that ties overhand or figure-8 knots that will be weighted).

If anyone is concerned with how the upper basket of the masterpoint locking biner will be weighted in the event of a Factor 2 fall, you can use separate lockers for each clove hitch coming down from the gear placements and clove them together at the bottom with the belayers rope.

I sometimes use the same system for vertically oriented placements but leave slack in the rope attached to the bottom two pieces so they will end up roughly equalized once fully weighted. Some times I clove in sequence.

I use the system picture below for two bolt anchors. The lower biner on the right serves as a redirect and something for the second to clove in to while the gear swap is conducted.

(This post was edited by notapplicable on Jul 10, 2012, 11:39 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by notapplicable () on Jul 10, 2012, 11:39 AM

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