Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [cracklover] Building anchors with the rope: Edit Log




acorneau


Jul 12, 2012, 7:19 PM

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Registered: Feb 6, 2008
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Re: [cracklover] Building anchors with the rope
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cracklover wrote:

In reply to:
It also seems to have inferior behavior in a factor-2 fall situation, since the belayer is only directly anchored to two pieces, and, although the rope can be redirected through the power point, the rigging makes it possible that the power point could be too low to be loaded in some cases, not to mention the potential problems caused by possible collision of the belay device and belayer's hand with the power point.

If you're referring to the Bowline on a bight plus clove, these seem like fair and potentially serious points.

GO

If you take the other side of the rope and clove it back to your belay loop like I do then the belayer is in all three pieces. Having the master point high enough is just a matter making it so (which is easy enough).

You can also adjust your master point so that the two pieces on the BOAB is taking a little more of the weight and the single cloved piece is taking a little less (which is what I usually do).

Again, circumstances dictate the best rigging.


(This post was edited by acorneau on Jul 12, 2012, 7:24 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by acorneau () on Jul 12, 2012, 7:23 PM
Post edited by acorneau () on Jul 12, 2012, 7:24 PM


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