Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: Building anchors with the rope: Edit Log




acorneau


Jul 12, 2012, 7:41 PM

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Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889

Re: Building anchors with the rope
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So let's discuss these systems if there is a large 10' ledge where the anchoring options are 10' back from the edge and the belayer wants to be seated at the edge. (A common scenario at one of my regular spots: Upper Mt. Scott, Wichitas, OK.)

What I usually do is pull up enough slack so I can clove to the first piece and have enough slack to sit on the edge. Then I use the BOAB to go to pieces 2 and 3, and will clove that back to myself when seated at the edge. I'll then use that cloved biner as the belay biner for my belay device.

This puts the weight mostly on the BOAB/#2/#3 pieces with piece #1 (cloved) sharing the load or nearly loaded. It takes two full-length runs of the rope between the edge and the pro 10 feet back, plus the rope for the knots.

The Bazillion anchor would take 4 full 10' runs between the butterfly/master point and the pro and would be a PITA to get all three strands at the right length without a lot of futzing around.

Cracklover's Fig-8+X system would only take two, the one "loaded" strand going to the belayer and one that isn't loaded at all.

Thoughts on this type of scenario?


(This post was edited by acorneau on Jul 12, 2012, 7:44 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by acorneau () on Jul 12, 2012, 7:42 PM
Post edited by acorneau () on Jul 12, 2012, 7:43 PM
Post edited by acorneau () on Jul 12, 2012, 7:43 PM
Post edited by acorneau () on Jul 12, 2012, 7:44 PM


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