Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [kennoyce] ATC guide Lowering?: Edit Log

Partner rgold

Jul 17, 2012, 3:09 PM

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Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1804

Re: [kennoyce] ATC guide Lowering?
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kennoyce wrote:
I guess he wasn't experienced enough to know that you never let go of the brake side of the rope.

If the brake side of the rope hasn't been redirected through a higher anchor point and/or attached to either the harness or the higher point by a Munter hitch, then once the autoblock friction is removed, the rope on the brake side is no longer a brake strand, and you don't have to have let go of it to drop the second.

Pulling on the rope-blocking biner can remove the friction even more suddenly than the designed unlocking mechanism, at which point if you haven't taken one of the supplementary braking actions mentioned above, you are basically just holding the follower in your hand (less whatever friction you get from a biner).

No matter how many years you've been climbing, you are still a noob when it comes to new equipment, something experienced climbers overlook at their (or their partners') peril.

I suspect that there's a ton of climbers out there who aren't prepared for everything an autoblocking belay off the anchor can deal them.

(This post was edited by rgold on Jul 17, 2012, 3:10 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by rgold () on Jul 17, 2012, 3:10 PM

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