Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [notapplicable] Building anchors with the rope: Edit Log


Jul 24, 2012, 10:21 PM

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Re: [notapplicable] Building anchors with the rope
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you can argue about "ideal" all you want ... like i said for all practical purposes the anchor i pictured will work just fine, except on RC ;)

you are never going to have perfect equalization regardless, and if you are worried, just make the doubled arm the longest one, which might actually give you better real "equalization" considering that the shortest arm usually takes more than its share of the load anyways

or simply clip it into yr strongest piece ... rare are the anchors IME where all pieces are absolutely equally strong and of absolute equal length ...

2 opposed quickdraws arent theorectically ideal for TR anchors, but they work ... belaying off yr harness with no redirect aint idea either ... sliding Xs arent ideal in a rope anchor, yet someone listed it (and john long for bolt anchors) here, along with series anchor example with the rope by craig luebben in his anchor book ...

if climbing teaches you anything is that there aint no "ideal" or "best" or "optimal" ... just what works bet for the person and the situation ...

the climber i run away from at the crag is the one who tries to claim that his way is ideal and youre doing it wrong ... like RC


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Jul 24, 2012, 10:45 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Jul 24, 2012, 10:37 PM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Jul 24, 2012, 10:43 PM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Jul 24, 2012, 10:45 PM

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