Jul 29, 2012, 8:55 AM
Registered: Jan 6, 2010
True for lowering off a sport climb but incorrect for cleaning aid (it seems you are thinking this is a technique for retreating from a sport climb).
Typically, someone will leave tat on a fixed piece if the leader has placed his next piece very far away, the second, hanging on his jugs is too low to reach back and clean the gear. Even if the leader has used a hook or a cam hook or has back cleaned a piece, we're not talking more that ten or fifteen feet. If the climbing was straight up, you would have no problem. The problem is when the climb traverses, even as much as horizontal, or overhangs. You're climbing rope will be holding the majority of your weight and ten or fifteen feet you lower out will do barely any damage to the 5 mil.
This technique is for small moves, not for cleaning the King Swing!
(This post was edited by Mark_Hudon on Jul 29, 2012, 8:57 AM)