Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [acorneau] Building anchors with the rope: Edit Log


Aug 2, 2012, 10:16 PM

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Registered: Jul 25, 2012
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Re: [acorneau] Building anchors with the rope
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acorneau wrote:
So let's discuss these systems if there is a large 10' ledge where the anchoring options are 10' back from the edge and the belayer wants to be seated at the edge. (A common scenario at one of my regular spots: Upper Mt. Scott, Wichitas, OK.)

What I usually do is pull up enough slack so I can clove to the first piece and have enough slack to sit on the edge. Then I use the BOAB to go to pieces 2 and 3, and will clove that back to myself when seated at the edge. I'll then use that cloved biner as the belay biner for my belay device.

This puts the weight mostly on the BOAB/#2/#3 pieces with piece #1 (cloved) sharing the load or nearly loaded. It takes two full-length runs of the rope between the edge and the pro 10 feet back, plus the rope for the knots.

The Bazillion anchor would take 4 full 10' runs between the butterfly/master point and the pro and would be a PITA to get all three strands at the right length without a lot of futzing around.

Cracklover's Fig-8+X system would only take two, the one "loaded" strand going to the belayer and one that isn't loaded at all.

Thoughts on this type of scenario?

Why not just build a nice tight anchor up near the pieces with a power point there using whatever system you like, set up a direct belay then clove hitch yourself to the anchor with 10ft of rope to walk back to ledge and just pull slack while your ATCGuide/Reverso/alpine clutch is 10ft away by the anchor?

It will only use 10ft more rope to anchor yourself in.

If you want to shorten your tie in without walking back to the belay I take a little extra slack, (say 11 ft for the 10ft ledge), tie a bight and clip a biner through it about 4 feet away from my end, clove hitch the strand from your harness to the biner and then lengthen shorten the loop to get the exact length you need. Or you can clip a biner to your harness and then just clove hitch to shorten the tie (I do the former because I find it easier to adjust a weighted clove hitch at eye level then one on my harness, but the later is cleaner)

(This post was edited by crasic on Aug 2, 2012, 10:20 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by crasic () on Aug 2, 2012, 10:18 PM
Post edited by crasic () on Aug 2, 2012, 10:20 PM

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