Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [crasic] Building anchors with the rope: Edit Log


Aug 3, 2012, 10:21 AM

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Re: [crasic] Building anchors with the rope
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crasic wrote:
I haven't had any issue pulling in slack on a guide from 10-20ft away, usually do it on topouts, leave the guide by the tree and then back off like 20 feet to the edge so I can see my partner climb, never really had any issues. If you need to lower for whatever reason then you need to walk up to the anchor anyway. In fact, I'd think that lowering on an "extended" powerpoint (e.g. with the power point on an alpine butterfly down by you) would be harder in an emergency situation because you still need to pass a sling through a redirect higher up (or do the "rotate the biner trick" do inch them down).

Use a Munter hitch and you won't have to deal with any of that. Using a Munter would also negate any issue with how close or far it was to the belayer; you operate it the same way no matter how close you are.

In reply to:
Ideally I would have the anchor extended next to me on the cliff edge, but on most topouts there simply isn't enough rope to do that.

I also avoid mixing my *personal* belay/tie-in and the belay as a hard rule so making the power point on my tie-in strand is a big personal no-no. Extending the anchor down to you is viable but requires more material which was what my comment was trying to address.

If you've lead the pitch and created your anchor with a master point, just tie your rope off with the slack you need to get to the edge (clove, fig-8, etc) and use the line going down to your climber to create your new master point, no extra materials or rigging required.

(This post was edited by acorneau on Aug 3, 2012, 10:23 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by acorneau () on Aug 3, 2012, 10:23 AM

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