Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [herites] Strange finger problems: Edit Log


Aug 13, 2012, 2:48 PM

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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2493

Re: [herites] Strange finger problems
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herites, I really did supply an answer, it's just a bit nuanced, or maybe "pithy".

I've been doing this a long time, so I guess things which are really obvious to me, seem as though they should be obvious to others. That's my fault, and I'm sorry for that.

You are putting tensile forces on your connective tissue which are in excess of the tensile strength of the material. Your connective tissue is tearing as a result. You can keep the repetitive nature of these forces down by climbing on real rock, which offers much more variety that the constant tiny-to-small face holds requiring large force per unit cross sectional area.

The connective tissue does eventually heal, sometimes well, sometimes not. In the meantime, the partially torn connective tissue (ligament, capsule, tendon, pulley, etc) will reduce stability of your finger joints, resulting in excess joint play and resulting arthritis.. (=inflammation of joint)

Take it from an old arthritic guy, take care of your connective tissue. Not everyone has the same strength/stiffness of connective tissue, nor the same capacity of healing.

(This post was edited by onceahardman on Aug 13, 2012, 2:56 PM)

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Post edited by onceahardman () on Aug 13, 2012, 2:56 PM

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