Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: finger strength question: Edit Log




david_n_raines


Aug 16, 2012, 10:26 AM

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Registered: Jul 2, 2008
Posts: 12

finger strength question
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All -

I'm trying to figure out what the best way to train for finger strength is. I can't use hangboards, because of my shoulders, but am considering doing "heavy finger rolls", ala Eric Horst:

http://www.nicros.com/training/articles/eastern-bloc-training-heavy-finger-rolls/

Does anyone have experience with this exercise? Did you do it and have it work? Did it not help at all? I'm not trying to start a general "is weighlifting useful in rock climbing" thread. :) I'm just curious about this exercise as an alternative to hangboard work, or "just climbing".

About me:

I've been climbing for about 5 years (first entirely trad, now sport). I lead my first 5.12a(outdoors) a couple weekends ago, and can usually redpoint 5.11+'s in 5-7 attempts. I feel like my endurance and my general redpointing skills are pretty good. I'm looking for a specific, structured finger-strength training plan / exercise, because "just climbing" probably isn't going to help me much at this point.

When I'm gym climbing, I feel like the biggest thing limiting me on either routes or boulder problems is finger strength - on the routes I can't do, there's usually a single hold I just can't hold onto. (on the other hand, if I can do all the moves, I can usually string the route together).

I can do 12 chest-to-bar pullups without pain, but I can't deadhang.

Thanks for any advice!

-David


(This post was edited by david_n_raines on Aug 16, 2012, 10:26 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by david_n_raines () on Aug 16, 2012, 10:26 AM


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