Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [pedro_sandchez] Question about Rock Prodigy rest cycle: Edit Log


Aug 20, 2012, 7:36 AM

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Registered: Apr 11, 2007
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Re: [pedro_sandchez] Question about Rock Prodigy rest cycle
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Not sure if this will be right on track, but here is my experience:

First note: I have utilized the RockProdigy article in combination with SCC. I have also tweaked it considerably to fit my life.

I only do one dedicated cycle in the winter. Then during the remaining 3 quarters, I do modified cycles that balance out the ability to have decent performance days throughout the spring, summer, and fall. Because of my family schedule, I'd rather have a more gradual growth than steep peaks and valleys.

Therefore, the major rest cycles are positioned at the end of the fall season for 10-14 days and at the end of my winter training cycle for 14 days. In them I do zero climbing. A little work on the antagonist muscle groups and a little cardio, but mainly REST & RECUPERATION. I let my body heal as completely as possible.

When I ease into my winter cycle, I start with a couple weeks of just ARC and Technique workouts.

My "in season" workouts are a rotation similar to below(replace HYP with POW or 4x4, etc.):

Week 1 = OFF - HYP - OFF - Technique - OFF - HYP - OFF
Week 2 = Technique - OFF - HYP - ARC - OFF - OFF - "Send"

I then have a mid summer One WEEK Rest.

Results(may or may not be impressive): Onsight increased by 1 full # grade & Redpoint increased by 3 letter grades. My 3 hardest redpoints have only taken one working burn and then send, so I think I could redpoint harder if I tried.

Edited to add: Also, I have not had a single finger injury. My only injury was a rib head displaced from playing pick-up football.

Hope this helps, otherwise ignore Wink

(This post was edited by climb4free on Aug 20, 2012, 7:48 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by climb4free () on Aug 20, 2012, 7:48 AM

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