Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [jdensign5] Lead climb quickdraws: Edit Log


Aug 20, 2012, 1:11 PM

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Re: [jdensign5] Lead climb quickdraws
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jdensign5 wrote:
In reply to:
Sometimes in sport climbing these are accepted methods to eventually achieving a free ascent
Yes, I never said using those methods don't make it a free ascent. I said there are different degress and levels at which one regards a true free ascent.

No, I said these methods defined aid climbing as opposed to free climbing (grabbing draws, standing on a bolt, standing on a sling, hanging on gear). You had some bullshit about how these were different "degress and levels" of free climbing. They are not. They are pretty much the definition of aid climbing...i.e NOT free climbing.

jdensign5 wrote:
In reply to:
Pinkpointing? With respect to sport climbing, this is pretty much an antiquated term. But even if you feel otherwise, pre-placing gear or draws does not invalidate a free ascent. You still free-climbed the route, just a different style of free climb. Just as a redpoint or a flash or an onsight are also free-climbing.
Yes, I never said that preplacing gear means that it wasn't a free climb, now did I? I don't think I am the one here who is confused.
No, this is what you said
jdensign5 wrote:
Depends on how free of a climb you want to climb. It is around the same as pre clipping the first bolt before you start. If you have access to the top and can rappel down and pre place, and the climb is really at your limit, then go ahead and pre place them. For a more "true free climb" place as you climb up. I like to place as I go unless the climb is too hard for me.

And it is complete bullshit, especially wrt sport climbing. Prehanging draws does nothing to make a free climb less of a "true free climb". You either climbed it free, or you did not. How you protected it does not define whether or not it was free climbed..

(This post was edited by csproul on Aug 20, 2012, 1:16 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by csproul () on Aug 20, 2012, 1:16 PM

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