Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [cracklover] Not reaching anchor on lead climb: Edit Log


Aug 20, 2012, 2:33 PM

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Registered: May 31, 2012
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Re: [cracklover] Not reaching anchor on lead climb
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cracklover wrote:

There's a story of a n00b wall climber, he'd been learning his aid systems, and had found his way to Yosemite Valley. Well he wanders into the Cafeteria and sees a big name wall climber. He walks right up, introduces himself, and tells the guy what an honor it is to meet him.

Then he asks for the guys opinion "What do you think I need to do to get ready for my first trip up El Cap?"

The big name wall climber explains to the noob how he should start with several grade IV routes, work his way up, do Washington Column, yada yada. The n00b looks crestfallen.

"But I'm only here for two weeks!" he says. "I heard that your first real aid climb was a new route up El Cap! So why do I need to spend all that time working up through the grades?"

"You're right," says the big name climber. "My first wall was a new route up El Cap. But the difference is that I didn't have to ask anyone any how-to before doing it."

If you have to ask how to bail, follow healyje's advice. If you don't... well then there you go, you're already all set and you know it.


Love, love, freakin' love it! Great story.

(This post was edited by jdensign5 on Aug 20, 2012, 2:35 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by jdensign5 () on Aug 20, 2012, 2:35 PM

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