Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [jdensign5] Lead climb quickdraws: Edit Log




jt512


Aug 20, 2012, 7:36 PM

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Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21892

Re: [jdensign5] Lead climb quickdraws
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jdensign5 wrote:
Actually, the definition of free climbing is to climb with only your hands and feet and other body parts without the use of artificial aid.

That is correct.

In reply to:
There are different degrees and opinions of what a true free climb is.

No there are not different degrees of what a "true" free climb is. If there were, then the definition you gave above would be wrongóbut the definition you gave above is correct. Therefore, there are no "degrees" of free climbing. You have either weighted the protection, or you have not. And while there may be opinions, the overwhelming consensus of what a "true" free climb is, is essentially given by the definition you wrote above. That is, that definition is the one accepted by the overwhelming majority of experienced climbers.

In reply to:
Part of free climbing to me, includes placing protection as you progress upward, not only weighting the rope, it depends on how strict you are on the subject.

It only depends to you because you've made up your own definition of free climbing, one which entails how the protection gets put up.

In reply to:
There are certain free climbing transgressions, for example. The current climbing magazine issue, page 33. Taint o meter. One end of the meter is a total free climb, the middle is questionable free climb, the end is not free at all. In between free and questionably free, includes: chalk, climb off route to rest, pre hang quick draws, stick clip bolts, pre place pro. In between questionably free and not free at all includes: take, grab bolt or draw, stand on bolt, stand on sling, aid.

OK, so there are at least two people with mistaken ideas about what a free climb is: you and the author of that article.

In reply to:
There are different opinions on what a true free climb is and preplacing gear is regarded mostly as diminished style, i.e., NOT AS GOOD.

No, the definition of free climbing is unambiguous: climbing without weighting the gear. Yes, there are differences in the style used to accomplish a free climb, and most climbers think that those differences in style translate to gradations in the quality of how the free climb was done (more so in the trad climbing than the sport climbing context).

In reply to:
As per wiki:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Free_climbing
As matters of style, any of the following are likely to be regarded similarly by most free climbers across the various cultures. Generally, the following diminish the perception of "good style":
Pre-placing gear (pinkpointing)

That is uncontroversial (as applied to trad, anyway). But that has not been what you've been arguing. A route climbed freely (that is, without aid) in the worst possible style is still a "true" free ascent. Most climbers would probably agree that that some free ascents have been done in better style than others, but hardly any climber would claim that the quality of the ascent affects the "freeness" of the ascent, which is precisely what you are arguing.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Aug 20, 2012, 8:21 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by jt512 () on Aug 20, 2012, 8:19 PM
Post edited by jt512 () on Aug 20, 2012, 8:21 PM


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