Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Ultimate Strength of a Multiple Point Anchor: Edit Log


Sep 4, 2012, 5:09 PM

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Ultimate Strength of a Multiple Point Anchor
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I've been trying to find the answer to a question but the amount of anchor topics is overwhelming. So I bring up one more.

Consider 3 protection points @ 10kn each
[edit] The rope has a impact force of 11kn [/edit]
A fall directly on the anchor with no belayer
The sling/cord breaking strength is not a factor.
Lastly for the sake of argument the self equalizing anchor is perfect.

1 A self equalizing anchor where the outer 2 legs are 90 deg apart & equal length.

2 An anchor with a tied power point, 90 deg outer legs and center leg is somewhat loose

3 Imagine pro orientated horizontally and a PAS type sling is used to connect the pro in series and the rope is clipped to only one end. Forcing one piece to completely blow before the other even sees any load at all.

What is the ultimate load energy each anchor can take absorb before it collapses completely?

Edited to clarify more what I want to know.
Basically which anchor will hold the most in a fall before completely breaking

(This post was edited by rocknice2 on Sep 6, 2012, 10:17 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by rocknice2 () on Sep 6, 2012, 10:07 AM
Post edited by rocknice2 () on Sep 6, 2012, 10:17 AM

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