Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [rocknice2] Ultimate Strength of a Multiple Point Anchor: Edit Log




Partner cracklover


Sep 6, 2012, 12:51 PM

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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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Re: [rocknice2] Ultimate Strength of a Multiple Point Anchor
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rocknice2 wrote:
Thanks! I was forgetting the time it takes the rope to spring back. No wonder it sounded weird.

It has little to do with time, in your case. The fact is, there is 10kN of tension in the rope at the moment that first piece fails. What do you think can possibly happen to change that? If there is five feet of stretch in the rope causing that tension, in order for the next piece, an inch below the first one, to be at square one again, you'd have to have some kind of miraculous force literally lift the climber five feet upwards into the air to unstretch the rope! How is that going to happen in any amount of time?

In reply to:
Scenario #3:
1st piece fails @ 10kN
rope regains .1kn [ let's just say ]
2nd piece fails @ 10kN
rope regains .1kn
3rd piece fails @ 10kN
Anchor fails @ 10.2kn

Am I understanding this better??

You still don't seem to quite have it. I think you're still confusing energy and force?

If each of the pieces fails at 10 kN, then they each fail at 10 kN! Yes, a small amount of energy will be taken out of the system between when piece 1 rips and piece 3 rips (although almost certainly not enough to keep piece 3 from ripping), but still, each of the three will rip when the peak force gets to 10kN.

GO


(This post was edited by cracklover on Sep 6, 2012, 12:52 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by cracklover () on Sep 6, 2012, 12:52 PM


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