Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [herites] How to keep the clusterfuck out of a double rope system during multipitch climbing?: Edit Log

Partner rgold

Sep 8, 2012, 8:06 AM

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Registered: Dec 3, 2002
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Re: [herites] How to keep the clusterfuck out of a double rope system during multipitch climbing?
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50 Euros???? The Metolius rope hooks cost $15 (about 12 Euros) a piece here, so about 24 Euros for a pair.

There isn't even a slight advantage to separating the ropes once you are off the ground. And trying to get two ropes properly flaked over a pair of slings is just going to make it more likely that you don't get the loops ordered in descending size on at least one of them and of course that's the one that will tangle. And then closing up the slings into "saddlebags" and pulling the rope out of them increases the possibility for tangling, not only because you can't intervene when tangling happens but also because the friction of strand against strand is enhanced when the strands are bound more tightly together in a "saddlebag," and this can pull other strands out of their correct adjustment.

If the loops are flaked over a tie-in, you have a better chance of lifting and unhooking a loop that is about to capture a bunch of others, especially if, contrary to the conventional wisdom, you make the loops short enough so that you can just reach down and unhook any loop that is trying to capture others. If you use long loops and the tangling action is going on ten feet below you, there is nothing you can do.

None of these issues occur with the rope hooks, because you just lift the strands off the hook and drop them. If you aren't pulling the loops up and shortening them in the process, you've completely eliminated the tangling mechanism.

(This post was edited by rgold on Sep 8, 2012, 1:37 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by rgold () on Sep 8, 2012, 1:37 PM

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