Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [SylviaSmile] Muscling through routes: Edit Log


Sep 9, 2012, 6:21 AM

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Registered: Sep 7, 2012
Posts: 6

Re: [SylviaSmile] Muscling through routes
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SylviaSmile wrote:
I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it, but your post struck a chord with me because recently I've observed two things: 1) my new gym's bouldering wall is centered around dynos and 2) I'm not naturally good at dynos (i.e. I can't do them). The reason your post resonated is because I also find myself saying, "Well, at least I can do this (single non-overhanging) V3 here by holding onto these little crimps"...but of course that's not good enough. So my hypothesis is that the people who are "muscling through" these routes are, besides being stronger than me, also just instinctively better at dynamic moves. What do you think?

@Marylandclimber Nah, I just started to take bouldering much more seriously and my shoes and I share the same name. I'm hoping to get more involved in the forums as long as time permits me. I do a lot more reading than posting though.

@SylviaSmile Yeah, my major guess were the individuals were either extremely stronger than myself or extremely lighter. I've pulled off a few dynos myself but, nothing super impressive. It's not so much dynos but, simple incline walls that get me. (I'm terrible with any incline and don't even get me started about the 35 degree area at my gym which I've never topped out on) We're talking like V2 grade routes. V3 routes however have a noticeable amount of crimps and I do better than them simply because of the crimps involved. I think body types have to do a lot with it. I'm climbing with nearly 190 pounds (People say I look 170?) while everyone else is climbing between 145-170 and are as strong or if not stronger than I am. I keep saying "At least I can do this better than them" but, honestly if they put in a little effort they'd probably pass me in no time.

(This post was edited by Dragonshoes on Sep 9, 2012, 6:22 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by Dragonshoes () on Sep 9, 2012, 6:22 AM

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