Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [guangzhou] Muscling through routes: Edit Log


Sep 17, 2012, 5:53 AM

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Registered: Aug 30, 2012
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Re: [guangzhou] Muscling through routes
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People bouldered on real rock dude, they also trained in other ways.

Firstly I'm not a dude, Im female.

Secondly I'm not saying you can't train in other ways. I consider cardie-vascular drills really important for good climbing ability. Endurance exercise such as using hard pumpy walls, sprinting and hard rowing are good. When it comes to core strength, suppleness and good body direction, drill climbing, acrobatics and slack lining are very beneficial.
Whilst I agree that fingers/forearm muscles have to be strong, there is good reason why a body builder can't hang by his forearm any longer than the next guy. Our bodies unfortunately are not adapted to hang on to tiny pinches or high force pulls for long, no matter how strong you are because as we squeeze the fingers those tiny blood vessels shut (like a tourniquet). During the hold, blood can't flow in and blood can't flow out. We are pushing those muscles to their limit and unless we can quickly give that muscle group a brief rest, the contraction will just let go of the hold because no blood to those extremities causes rapid muscle fatigue.
Our legs are naturally stronger than the arms. Our muscle groups in the legs are huge in comparison to the forearm. There is not enough emphasis on foot and leg forces when it comes to completing a climb. How many times do you use the tip of your toe on the tiniest of holds to launch you forward to that final reach? IMO many climbers are far too passive with their lower body.

(This post was edited by DemolitionRed on Sep 17, 2012, 5:58 AM)

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Post edited by DemolitionRed () on Sep 17, 2012, 5:58 AM

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