Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [madkiki] Nuts for Anchors: Edit Log


Sep 25, 2012, 10:51 AM

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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
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Re: [madkiki] Nuts for Anchors
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madkiki wrote:
I did my first Trad climb at Moore's Wall in North Carolina and it was the first climbing area where they don't have bolted anchors like I see at other climbing areas such as Pilot Mountain.

Anyway, we trad climbed up Wailing Wall and when it was time to Rappel down I noticed that the anchor system was nothing but three nuts in a crack. I was scared out of my mind but at the same time I knew that I did not have a choice.

One thing I did not mention was that my glasses had been accidentally kicked off my face after first pitch and therefore could not see much after that. So, I did not get a very good look at the anchors and had to trust the people that I was with. We did find my glasses after we were all safely on the ground

Anyway, I could not believe that the Nutty Anchors that are placed there instead of solid bolted anchors.

I get the impression that after so many people using this anchor it begins to wear-and-tear or some idiot could easily mess with the anchors.

One thing for sure, I am no longer climbing there.

On it looks like Wailing Wall is a one-pitch wall (never been there). Still, if someone in your party traditionally led then that person should be comfortable inspecting the fixed-gear anchors. So maybe it comes down to whether you are comfortable with the anchor assessment of whoever did the leading?

Bill L

(This post was edited by billl7 on Sep 25, 2012, 10:52 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by billl7 () on Sep 25, 2012, 10:52 AM

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