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Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [patto] What determines the rate at which a cam will rip out?: Edit Log




USnavy


Sep 26, 2012, 9:38 AM

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Registered: Nov 5, 2007
Posts: 2554
Re: [patto] What determines the rate at which a cam will rip out?
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patto wrote:
In theory and in most of the time in practice a cam will either pull at very light loads ie a tug with your hand. Or hold until the rock or cam breaks.
I dont know what theory you are studying. Every cam I have ever pulled on a bounce test while climbing aid held static bodyweight. It was not until I started bounce testing the piece that it pulled. Also, most of the cams I have ripped on a fall would have likely held bodyweight as in most cases I could feel the piece tug on the rope before ripping. But, many of those cases involved the rock breaking right under the lobes, so I guess that would fall into your exception clause. Anyway, just because a piece will withstand a tug from your hand does not mean it will arrest a lead fall.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Sep 26, 2012, 9:41 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Sep 26, 2012, 9:38 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Sep 26, 2012, 9:41 AM


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