Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [cracklover] What determines the rate at which a cam will rip out?: Edit Log




patto


Sep 27, 2012, 3:53 PM

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Registered: Nov 14, 2005
Posts: 1451

Re: [cracklover] What determines the rate at which a cam will rip out?
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cracklover wrote:
In even the hardest and most parallel of desert sandstone, I'm absolutely sure that a hard fall on a small cam will cause it to track at least a little.
Then the rock isn't hard or it is glassy smooth.

If a small cam (and by small I mean Metolius 0 or below) start tracking then its pretty much all over. If its "tracking" then you are going to have lubricating rock dust. If it is slipping or sliding then the lower kinetic friction will likely mean it will continue.

If you are suggesting that a cam moving out and then stopping is common in cam behaviour then you clearly don't understand the mechanics here. Once a cam moves in the direction of fall then in all likelyhood its not going to stop. (Unless you are talking slight compression movement that is visible on all big cams on even a hand tug.)


cracklover wrote:
In even the hardest granite, you sometimes must make do with a shallow cam in a pin scar. Expecting these to hold a hard fall is wishful thinking. A buddy of mine recently fell and ripped four such cams from their placements - all of which he thought were truck.
Your buddy needs to assess his gear placements better.

cracklover wrote:
Those are just a couple examples of gear that looks - not perfect, but good enough. And these pieces will certainly hold, but will pull out before they break.
No they are not.

cracklover wrote:
BTW, your link does little to bolster your point. There were only two cams tested, and in both cases, they tracked out, undamaged. In one case, it tracked out even though it was behind a bottleneck, which is the one case where a cam should be absolutely solid. So much for your theory that it either comes out with a tug or hold until it breaks or the rock crumbles
One cam tracked out leaving scores in the rock. Ie the rock sheared and failed as mentioned in the comments. The other had a wedged block move and it released the cam.

Onlyoriginal asked a question and I answered by mentioning behaviour in strong cohesive rock. Sure if the rock is really shit failure can occur at lower loads that is long been recognised. But whats your point again?


(This post was edited by patto on Sep 27, 2012, 4:04 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by patto () on Sep 27, 2012, 4:04 PM


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