Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [ecade] What rope should I buy?: Edit Log


Sep 29, 2012, 2:26 AM

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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
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Re: [ecade] What rope should I buy?
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ecade wrote:
respectfully agree and disagree

I am no scientist or engineer, i could very easily be wrong on everything noted below. but IMHO:

dont know what the stretch is on the beals or eldrids, i believe the tendon's 36%, I think that's pretty high. the sterling is 30%.

I think that its better to get a good belayer than a stretchy rope, an overley stretchy rope makes it hard to judge falls and obstructions. a little slack can go a longer way. but yes stretch makes falls softer, but bigger isn't always better.

on TR, for me at least, its either a project that i'm too scared to try on lead or with noobs, for projects i don't want the rope too tight I want to learn the movements, resovle fear of unkwown etc... not have something acting as too much of an aid. And for noobs they don't like falling and dropping far. and I don't like pulling them up. its a climbing version of marx, the more one attributes to the rope (g-d) the less they attain for themself (paraphrased a while since i read the manifesto)

other issues i omitted, not corroborrated with science (don't know stats) but I think the tendon has a low sheath percentage and would be beaten to hell on my homes choss. I've beaten it to hell at my gym. this point may possibly prove wrong, I should jinvest 5 minutes and corroborate but eh i already bought the darn thing :)

that said, the guy who suggested the rope to me, used it outdoors and loved it. it does have a centre marker.

Again, this is my opinion based on little (read no) controlable science. so take it with a grain of salt.

happy and safe climbing and fun rope debating.

incorrect the tendon smart 10m has LESS measured static and roughly the same dynamic stretch than the sterling marathon pro that you use outside

7.2% vs 8.4% static ... which is more applicable for top rope body weight situations

36% v 35.2% dynamic... which means its basically the same

by those specs the sterling marathon pro 10.1 would be "unsuitable" for outdoors by yr reasoning

as to the "sheath" not lasting as long ... this is what happened by around pitch 1000+ on my tendon ... i used it for everything from sport whippers, to long multi, to TR gangbangs ... and it just kept on ticking ...

i repeat there there is little reason not to use one particular rope vs, another of roughly the same size and specs for cragging outdoors, especially TR ... the only thing that i can think of would be the ease of handling through autolocking devices ...

if yr worried about rope stretch at the start use a static rope ... the tendon and the sterling have the same measured stretch ...

but then one is cooler and costs $$$$ more than the other Tongue

the tendon smart 10mm 60m is really a 150$+ rope which is what they go for on just ropes when in stock ... however in canada we have the opportunity to buy it for 85 smackaroos and not from some hack on ebay either Wink

(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Sep 29, 2012, 2:43 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Sep 29, 2012, 2:27 AM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Sep 29, 2012, 2:30 AM
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Sep 29, 2012, 2:43 AM

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