Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [david_g48] dave macleod gets dropped off the end of a rope: Edit Log




bearbreeder


Oct 2, 2012, 9:57 AM

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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [david_g48] dave macleod gets dropped off the end of a rope
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as you suspect it now becomes a 60m rope ... which youll use on the 30m climbs here Wink

the nature of the routes dictate the rope ... if developers put up routes that require longer ropes, then you need to use the right gear ... or not climb those routes ...

for squamish a 70m isnt usually needed, but is very useful for linking pitches, and once you whip enough youll still have a 60m ...

but for some places in the rockies or in skaha, or other places ... a 70m should be standard by default IMO ... there have been enough lowering epics to warrant it there ... and its doubly dangerous in that there are 30m climbs right next to 35m ones ... there "may" be an intermediate rap station, but then is it safer to do 2 raps rather than just use a longer rope?

also be VERY careful on those "30m" climbs or raps ... even in squamish there are some raps where a 30m will just barely make it with rope stretch ... and youll have to untie the knots in the ends ...should you let go of the rope after the rap, you might have trouble retrieving the line

there was an accident a while back in skaha where on a 30m climb someone pulled a bight through the ring and tied off for a lower ... the problem was that you need the full 30m to get down so that the person shorted themselves by several feet when doing so, if they retied/rethread normally it would have been fine ... they got dropped off the end of the rope and tumbled down requiring an EMT rescue ....

id personally have the extra 10m than not personally


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Oct 2, 2012, 10:02 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by bearbreeder () on Oct 2, 2012, 10:02 AM


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