Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [akleeka] V angle for verticle anchor: Edit Log




billl7


Oct 5, 2012, 3:41 PM

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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1888

Re: [akleeka] V angle for verticle anchor
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rocknice2 wrote:
Make your anchor and pull the power point toward the direction of load. If there is an angle formed them the formula applies.

He's right.

So if the crack is straight up on a vertical wall and the load is down, the angles will stay negligible and 'spacing' of pro is not very important.

As for the bomber piece out to the side: Are you belaying from below so the rope runs the length of the route up to the anchor? Is the slack introduced when the anchor fails onto the bomber piece pretty small compared to the total rope run? I think in this case I'd build my anchor out where there are bomber pieces and place a piece closer to the top of the climb as a redirect.


(This post was edited by billl7 on Oct 5, 2012, 3:44 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by billl7 () on Oct 5, 2012, 3:43 PM
Post edited by billl7 () on Oct 5, 2012, 3:44 PM


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