Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [Emph] Transition from Anchor to Rope (TR): Edit Log


Oct 9, 2012, 4:43 PM

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Re: [Emph] Transition from Anchor to Rope (TR)
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Emph wrote:
This and my initial issue never came up during the sessions with my instructor.

He simply went over a few TR anchors at eye level on the ground, the SRENE concept etc. Then we did a couple climbs where he incorporated other types of anchors.

The bomber bolts on my weekend climb had rings on them. So when I climbed back up to clean the anchor I fed the rope through them and rappelled down.

Which leads me to another question. If the rings weren't there, what would have been the best way to remove my anchor and get down without feeding the rope through the eye of the anchor? In one of these books (Climbing Anchors I believe) I remember reading that over time the rope will groove the eye of the anchor, which is a big no-no.

Read what I bolded - you don't know enough yet to safely go out on your own.

As I said up thread:
In reply to:
Especially since there's the whole issue of how to get the draws back when everyone is done with the route, which also doesn't lend itself to an internet description.

One of the steps involves untying from the rope; in a later step you then retie, all while hanging off the bolts. This is why it really should be taught in person and not described in text - the potential consequences of screwing up the steps are huge.

(This post was edited by marc801 on Oct 9, 2012, 4:45 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by marc801 () on Oct 9, 2012, 4:45 PM

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