Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [cchildre] Stuck Rope in Organ Mtns.: Edit Log




billl7


Oct 11, 2012, 9:29 AM

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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1888

Re: [cchildre] Stuck Rope in Organ Mtns.
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cchildre wrote:
In the interest of closure. Can I get clarification about which rap route was responsible for the stuck rope. Two southern rap routes. One uses older anchors (double rope to the shoulder, and then a single rope slab rap). The other uses newer anchors (A 70 M single rap, then a single rap to some fixed gear/slings, and to the ground) All sorts of opportunities to get a rope stuck with those flakes or bushes. I've only been on the newer anchors, and both times, did a double rope rap all the way to the ground from the mid anchor, using two 70m. This incident sounds like they were off the typical rap route. Thanks for the pictures of the stuck rope and such, and it doesn't look very familiar. My next trip plan is to use a single 70m to get down the new rap system.
In my opinion regarding this thread, it wasn't that one or the other rap route was responsible for the stuck rope. It was starting down the one with the newer anchors, but then swinging back mid-rap towards the rap-route that starts from the old anchors. This "swinging back" caused the fall-line of the rope (when pulled) to slip behind the flake/ledge in the photos.

If one raps down either line (new or old anchors), this flake/ledge doesn't really come into play unless winds are really bad in the wrong direction.

It is unfortunate that the current MP.com descent description for Sugarloaf does not clarify (as of this posting) (Edit: the MP.com descent description is actually a blending of the two separate descents.)

Bill L

P.S. I have heard it is still somewhat possible to stick ropes going down either way. It is the swinging from one to the other that makes it extremely likely to happen.

P.P.S. I put a pretty complete description of all this as a comment to this MP.com Photo


(This post was edited by billl7 on Oct 13, 2012, 12:59 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by billl7 () on Oct 11, 2012, 10:19 AM
Post edited by billl7 () on Oct 11, 2012, 10:20 AM
Post edited by billl7 () on Oct 12, 2012, 6:22 AM
Post edited by billl7 () on Oct 13, 2012, 12:59 PM


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