Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [DemolitionRed] Muscling through routes: Edit Log




guangzhou


Oct 13, 2012, 11:24 PM

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Registered: Sep 26, 2004
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Re: [DemolitionRed] Muscling through routes
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DemolitionRed wrote:
I don't have an axe to grind so much as frustration watching some of you guys hurt yourselves.
I weigh just short of 100lbs and I am 5.5 tall. I'm skinny, Im female and I'm getting through those tough technical routes just fine. I have never used a hang board in my life and I have never lifted weights but as well as climbing, I spent my adolescence as a gymnast. Being supple and having a good understanding of my core body strength and my overall center of gravity is what allows me to climb with ease those same routes all you guys need to build muscle to do.
Just saying !

Why are you so concerned about what or how other people are climbing.

Last I checked, Gymnastics requires quite a lot of hanging and pulling. More or less the same process as using a hang-board.

Working through those technical routes just fine, how about those routes that require a big dyno halfway through. For me, climbing is about being well rounded. I climb fairly constantly whether I am on slabs or overhangs, crack or face.

In reply to:
All grades are completely subjective, so I only ever use grades as a guide and not as point scorer!

Yes, grades are subjective, and no one here recommended you use them as a scorecard.(That's another climbing website) Even with that in mind, you have to admit, the amount of technique or power needed to complete a 5.5 versus a 5.12 are significantly different.

In reply to:
I'm a big wall and multi pitch climber and only use the gyms bouldering room to go through some of the highly technical and demanding moves sometimes asked of me when I'm a couple of thousand feet up.

If you're only bouldering in your gym, youíre missing out for the style of climbing you do.

While hard bouldering move will definitely help you develop power and technic, running laps on top-ropes and doing multiple lead till muscle failure would be useful for you multi-pitch climbing.

What do you consider a big-wall?

For me big walls take the average party, climbing at regular speed, at least two days to complete. Just want to make sure we are referring to the same terminology.

As for multi-pitch climbing, doing hard and short sport routes helps too. Short hard crack routes too.

In reply to:
Indoor bouldering allows me to practice those demanding pumpy moves. roofs and overhangs comprising of delicate foot holds, pinchers, heel hooks and slippery slopers will absolutely insist that I have great balance (know how to flag myself) good mind skills absolute determination and strength.

Where do you climb? Just curious. I also think there is a huge deference between doing an demanding and hard move inside the local gymís bouldering cave and 30 feet above your last nut on pitch eight. (Physically and mentally)

In reply to:
Power to weight ratio is very important. I don't dispute that top climbers tend to have low body fat levels and good strength. They also have a very high level of fitness, excellent spotting skills, have a competitive and daring edge and are incredibly supple.

Spotting skill? What does that have to do with anything?

Climbing fitness: Endurance and Power. They also have technique. Hard to do technical move of one finger pockets if you're not strong enough.

In reply to:
Whilst I may be skinny, I'm pure muscle. That though, doesn't mean I'm going to beat you in an arm wrestling competition. I may however, fly past you on the wall, because although you may be stronger than me, I am probably more agile than you. I gained my strength through climbing. I gained my agility through climbing.

Skinny, pure muscle, good shape, and flawless technique. Share a video or some photos.

Making a lot of assumption about your ability and those around you. Iím not a fast climber, I donít have high endurance. Most pitches Iíve done in a day 32. Linking several routes with jogs in between at Cathedral in New Hampshire. I've linked RA to Crest Jewel, but don't consider that very long.

I tried to do the Regular Route on Half Dome in a day a long time ago, I failed with a time of 26 hours. (Car to summit)

With that said, I did Snake Dike car to summit in just over 5 hours. In this case, grade, constancy of climbing, and climbing skills all play a factor.

Grades for me are not a scorecard either, but the harder the grade, the slower I climb.

In reply to:
I love watching people boulder because they give other climbers the edge when it comes to intermediate movements. The climbs are short, fast and pumpy but strength on its own is pretty useless if you want to progress beyond the most basic of grades.

Personally, I prefer to boulder or climb than to watch. Seems to help my climbing more.

Again, this technique versus muscle has been around a long time. Iím a technique climber, which help me with endurance. I am not powerful by any means. My view, you can have all the technique in the world, and loads of endurance to cling to a hold forever, but if you donít have the power to do the next move, youíre not going any higher.

Iíve also been told that more power means you need less endurance because you wonít get as pumped doing the individual moves. (Interesting for sure)

My technique is strong, my endurance is fine, and my weakness is definitely power. My weakness is what I am currently working on improving, without depriving the other two.

Improving at climbing isn't hard. Challenge yourself every-time you climb. Push you limit every-time you climb. Get on routes are are to difficult to finish first try. The more you push your limit, the more you advance it. Sounds easy, but what I see at both the gym and the grags is a few climbers pushing themselves consistently, and many more staying well inside their physical (and mental) comfort zone.


(This post was edited by guangzhou on Oct 13, 2012, 11:31 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by guangzhou () on Oct 13, 2012, 11:27 PM
Post edited by guangzhou () on Oct 13, 2012, 11:29 PM
Post edited by guangzhou () on Oct 13, 2012, 11:31 PM


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