Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [camhead] 5.15: Edit Log


Oct 23, 2012, 11:12 AM

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Re: [camhead] 5.15
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camhead wrote:
shotwell wrote:
camhead wrote:
Hmm, off the top of my head, no googling... there are way more that I couldn't remember, too.

Adam Ondra
Paxti Usobiaga
Bernabe Fernandez (dubious)
Ramonet Julien
Iker Pou
Dave Graham (has he graded any of his FAs 15a?)
Dani Andrada
Chris Sharma
Tommy Caldwell*
Mike Foley
Daniel Woods
Ethan Pringle
Yuji Hirayama*
Fred Rhouling*
Steve McClure
Enzo Oddo
Gabriel Moroni
Jonathan Siegrist*
Adam Taylor*
Magnus Midtboe

*Unrepeated FAs

Dave claimed 9a+ for Coup de Grace in Ticino though it was subsequently downgraded to 9a when Gabriel Moroni found an easier crux sequence (V11 where Graham found V14 iirc.)

Dave has climbed Realization as well as suggesting 9a+ for The Wheel of Life, so he certainly belongs on the list.

Cedric Lachat is the only obvious omission to me with Papichulo, a 9a+ in Oliana.

I'm not aware that Siegrist has ever claimed a true 9a+. I'm pretty sure 9a/+ is the highest grade he has claimed for an FA, but I could have missed something.

Jonathan Siegrist, via Rock and Ice
I'm unsure about exactly how hard it is. On Le Reve, I spent a huge amount of time and effort, and thus it definitely felt harder than any route I've ever done ... but I have zero experience climbing in the 5.15 realm so I'm very hesitant to declare such an astronomical grade. Plus, new routes are always so tricky to grade. Who knows what I may have missed, or how the route may have tested my dimensions or weakness, etc.?

I'll think it over more, but honestly I don't really care about what grade it ends up at. It presented a challenge like one I've never faced before and it was a battle to stick with it. I'm just so damn psyched to have sent.

Really nice list for off the top of the head. I would have missed McLure, Fernandez (though I am aware of Chilam Balam and just doubt his claim,) and Foley. Probably need about 231 more Spaniards on the list, but American climbing media isn't reliable about reporting international accomplishments.

Ok, I was not aware that Graham had done Realization. And yeah, I was thinking of La Reve for Siegrist.

I slightly related news, Ondra is on his way to the Red River Gorge right now. Get your everything ready, the end is near!

2007 for Graham and Realization, though there wasn't much publicity about it.

There are already a bunch of strong climbers in The Red, with Lachat reporting a 'second burn' ascent of Pure Imagination and 'fifth try' ascent of The Golden Ticket. Ashima flashed Omaha Beach as well. The good news with Ondra showing up is that we'll soon find out if Taylor was justified in giving 9a+ to Southern Smoke Direct!

Maybe something will finally happen this season with the old Sharma project at Drive-by. Surely that is the only thing hard enough to be worth his time (unless this is simply a quick stop on his way to the high Nevada desert.)

edited for my inability to speak 'Jens.'

(This post was edited by shotwell on Oct 23, 2012, 11:15 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by shotwell () on Oct 23, 2012, 11:15 AM

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